One Design Rules For

The GDSHS

 

Spirit of the rules: The GDSHS Easy Glider competition is created as a fun and cheap way to compete with our friends and encourage and welcome new modelers to the fun of competition. The stock Multiplex Easy Glider (EZG) is the model of choice for its cost, durability and availability. The goal is to compete with models of equal performance and have fun. Modelers will be modelers and modifications or repairs are allowed as long as the competitor is not attempting to gain a hidden performance advantage.

As we grow the class we will learn what modifications are necessary to allow peak performance and durability. The rules below are designed to grow as the class grows and any changes or modifications agreed upon must be simple to perform by modeling standards and adaptable to existing Easy Glider models.

General:

Modifications allowed:


 

 


Ray DiNoble’s Notes on the EZG

- March 2007 -

 

Ray sent me a bunch of emails over the last several days on his club’s experience with the EZG. I condensed them into one page and did a little creative editing (hope Ray does not mind) to add my comments in brown. It is obvious that the EZG fad is fun and other clubs are taking advantage of a low cost, good performing airplane. The California guys are doing MOM contests but I have not heard of any of the results but will keep my eye out for notes.

Now from the voice of the “Old Probe Driver”

1.       I replaced the monofilament with braided retriever line, as our ROCKS would have destroyed the mono within the first few launches.  I lengthen the line such that our winch retriever can bring the 'parachute' back almost to the starting point - NO walking or shagging 'chutes.  We still mainly winch launch them especially when mixing 'big' sailplanes with the EZG. (Very good idea if we are just sport flying but will not work in the MOM contests I have planned but the lines could be set up this way in any event. If we used one of our retrievers we may have to have lighter line in order not to load up the plane too much- a test will be needed)

2.       Most of us are putting the aileron horns on TOP of the wing, as the aileron servo gears will not last when landing (a 2 minute modification).  (Check the photo section on Yahoo Groups to see the installation)

3.       You MUST move the tow-hook back at least 3/4-inch minimum.  The CG is not too critical where specified (70 mm or about 2.75 " back from the LE). 

4.       Spoilerons are nice but really not necessary for landing control. (My first outing with Spoilerons was not a happy one, in the wind and especially cross wind when in spoiler mode, a lot of the lateral control goes away making spot landing a guess. I will experiment more and let you know the throws that work for me.)

5.       Krylon paint sort of attacks the foam.   We are now using Rust-Oleum.  A fast wipe with Acetone will not hurt the foam. (Check the photo section on Yahoo groups to see some of Ray’s club members paint schemes)

6.       The spar is a CF tube with an I.D. of 5/16".  I am using a full length 5/16 wooden dowel inside the tube just to help (?) prevent the tube from collapsing at the center.  Probably not worth the effort as an easy launch will get just about as high without stressing the wings.  You just got to think differently with these little foamies.

7.       For ballast the tube is perfect.  A 5/16 steel rod weighs ~0.33 oz per inch or 1 ounce for 3 inches of rod.  Therefore a 9-inch length weighs 3 ounces.  That 9-inch length will keep the tube center FLAT on launch.  I have been flying mine in winds over 10 -12 MPH without any difficulties - no ballast used.

8.      The Elapor foam is better than EPP foam.  No taping the surfaces like some foamies, and CA is recommended - epoxy does NOT work on Elapor.  One of our guys used nothing but GOOP for the entire assembly! I only used GOOP to hold the servos in place. (I assembled my Twin-Star with GOOP and it worked great)

9.      They do thermal like crazy. If you get more than a couple in the club you better mandate different color scheme’s on the bottom of the wings for visibility and ID'ing your own plane when in a gaggle.  

10.  My final move of the tow-hook is 1/8" behind the CG. I did try 1/4" behind but that didn't launch as well as the 1/8".  These are winch launches, not hi-start. (Seems to work well with a high start).

11.   My ailerons are now set at 3/16" UP and 3/32" DOWN (almost no down) coupled with 1/2" left and right rudder.  Elevator is set at 3/8" UP and 9/16" DOWN (lot's of down needed to fly inverted).  I am using negative 70% Expo on both up and down elevator. CG is at the suggested point at 70 mm (2 3/4") behind the LE of the wing at the fuse.  I have moved the CG back about 1/8" but did not notice any improvement in flying. (I am going to move the ailerons more to fit my flying style but Ray’s numbers are great to learn on.)

12.   I thought I'd better explain the way I measure the aileron throws to get such exact distances. I use 'twist' drills as a 'go-no-go' gauge. I gave up on measuring sticks, calipers, etc. long ago

13.   My flying weight is 25-1/2 ounces. One wing was heavier then the other. I GOOP'ed two pennies in the round depression near the aileron tip to correct the lateral balance. (Works well, I like it but guessing was much more fun)

14.   If you can launch a Gentle Lady on Mike's winch then you can launch an EZG. There is an amazing amount of wing 'bowing' on launch. Just go easy on the pedal, as this is NOT designed to be a rocket ship on launch. (Not much bending on the small diameter high starts I got for the club and the launches are very good).

15.   Click on the link below to see what some of the guys are doing with the EZG

 

 

Bunch of fun flying again.

Ray